Three Chardonnays & Rising Reserve Whiskey

In this edition John Wilson features three great southern hemisphere wines that have the ability to age for a decade or more. All three are bottled under screwcap, and so will not develop problems with TCA or premox.

1) Felton Road Bannockburn Block 6 Chardonnay 2022, Central Otago, New Zealand

Block Six was planted on north-facing slopes in 1993, predominantly with Mendoza clone Chardonnay. The grapes were whole bunch pressed, the juice settled overnight and fermented in French oak, 5% of which Is new. The wine underwent a full wild malolactic fermentation in spring and was bottled unfined and unfiltered following sixteen months in barrel.

Felton Road was bought by Englishman Nigel Greening in 2000. He and winemaker Blair Walters have been together since, producing a range of excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is recognised as one of the finest producers in New Zealand. The vineyards have been farmed organically and biodynamically ever since. A total of 12,000 cases are produced, including several single vineyard wines. All are estate-bottled.

In the far south of New Zealand, Central Otago is one of the most southerly vineyard areas in the world. It has a continental climate with high seasonal and diurnal fluctuation. Known primarily for Pinot Noir, the region also produces high-quality Chardonnay and Riesling.

2) Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2022, Auckland, New Zealand

The Brajkovich family emigrated from Croatia to New Zealand in 1937. Within a few years, they had established what is now Kumeu Estate in West Auckland. Since then it has become known as one of the finest producers of Chardonnay. The third generation is now in charge of the thirty acre estate. Four different cuvées of Chardonnay are released each year, three single vineyard, the fourth a ‘Villages’ wine. All of their wines have been sealed with screwcap since 2001.

The Hunting Hill vineyard was first planted in 1982, and then again in 2000/2001. The grapes are hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed and are fermented 100% in barrel using wild yeasts. There is a full malolactic fermentation. It was then aged for almost a year in French oak barrels (25% new).

3) Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay, Coal River Valley 2022

Tolpuddle is based in Tasmania. The Island has established itself as one of the leading cool-climate vine growing regions of Australia, noted for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Planted first in 1988, in 2011 the vineyard was bought by cousins and leading Australian producers Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith. In the decade or so since they have won countless trophies for both the Chardonnay and Pint Nor. The grapes were hand-picked, whole bunch pressed, and fermented in French oak. The wine spent nine months in barrel and then matured in tank on lees for a further four months.

4) Teeling 21-year-old Single Malt Irish Whiskey Rising Reserve, Series Three

This is the third release in the Teeling Rising Reserve range. Each is made using a select 21-year-old Irish single malt which is then given a unique final maturation in cask. This release was initially aged in ex-Bourbon casks before spending three years in ex-Port barrels. Six thousand bottles were produced. The Teeling Distillery is located in the centre of Dublin city.