Etna, magnetic attraction
Etna, at more than 3,300 metres high, is a majestic and powerful presence. The second most active volcano in Europe, it turns heads, attracting the eyes with its vital force, fixing itself forever in the mind of every observer. This giant that huffs, puffs and creates smoke rings is a world apart on the island of Sicily in southern Italy, with an impressive variety of soils, slopes, altitudes and microclimates. Multiple lava flows have determined the physiognomy of the terrain which ranges from dark brown to black, all formed by the crumbling of diverse types of lava of differing ages, as well as eruptive materials such as lapilli, ash and sand. Their composition can result in soils with a very fine texture or with plentiful skeleton and abundant “ripiddu” (pumice with a very high draining capacity).
Man has transformed this lavic environment into a unique agricultural landscape, exploiting a harsh and wild soil that is loath to bend to his will.
The living sculptures, the centuries-old, twisted and unique alberello-trained mother vines, even ungrafted in some plots, are amazing. Vineyards have been cultivated in the steeply sloping areas since ancient times on characteristic terraces contained by dry lava stone walls. This extraordinary volcanic landscape, dotted with palmenti (traditional stone buildings with a multi-level structure for pressing the grapes using the force of gravity, a historical-cultural heritage), is part of one of Sicily’s most authentically beautiful and interesting areas.
The uniqueness of Etna never ceases to amaze; the magnetic energy of the volcano dominates the landscape and wine scene. Etna emits something sacred, absolute, ancestral and mystical. The imagination runs wild among these craggy lava cliffs where it is said that wise Aeneas landed, cunning Ulysses blinded the Cyclops Polyphemus, and Morgan le Fay welcomed King Arthur. This powerful and unpredictable giant, the highest volcano in Europe, has been a World Heritage Site in 2013.
With its heroic viticulture made of effort and passion and its magnetizing force, Etna attracts enthusiasts and winemakers from all over the world, inducing them to experience “a’ Muntagna” (as the volcano is known locally) as a lifestyle rather than a way to earn a living.
With the first Sicilian DOC in 1968, one of the first in Italy to be precise, Etna laid the foundations for its future. The year 2000 saw the dawn of a veritable Etna renaissance: a young denomination, considering the time wine needs, that was rapidly expanding. Nowadays, the “Etna phenomenon” is a widespread topic. A place where vines have been cultivated for centuries, it is an internationally recognised wine territory. Over the last ten years, the vine-growing area in the shadow of the volcano has increased by 80% (currently counting just over 1,450 hectares, 60% organic) and the number of bottles produced has quadrupled (around 6 million). There is a race for quality on Etna that forces everyone to maintain a high level.
The Etna map starts with the slopes: north, east, south-east, south-west: four macro quadrants which look like a large upside-down letter C in the Etna Doc area.
But, entering more into the specifics, 133 micro districts can be classified, historical sub-areas demarcated by particular lava formations, which define their geological identity: each district, depending on the different volcanic eruptions that have occurred over the centuries, has a unique soil and a specific microclimate, resulting in wines specific to its locality.
The white revolution
A surge of white is rising up the slopes of the volcano, led by the carricante grape, which is rewriting the area’s oenological geography. This acidic and sapid grape, that tastes of salt and flint, is giving life to wines with high evolutionary potential.
For the first time ever, the production of white wines on Etna exceeded that of reds in 2025. Who could have ever imagined that, in about ten years, the geography of wine on Etna would undergo such a substantial change? Yet it is happening. In some ways, it confirms that, in terms of territory, Etna has a versatility that other great wine terroirs do not have. Something similar, in Barolo or Montalcino for example, is simply unthinkable.
Etna Rosso, Rosso Riserva, Rosato and Spumante foresee at least 80% of Nerello Mascalese grapes (with the possibility of vinification in purity) and up to a maximum of 20% of Nerello Cappuccio. Nerello Mascalese originates from the Mascali plain, from which its name derives, while Cappuccio refers to the characteristic cloak shape that the leaves of the plant acquire to protect the bunches from the intensity of the sun and wind. Mascalese is low in anthocyanins (and therefore also in colour) but has a good supply of tannins. Cappuccio is the exact opposite, which is precisely why it is usually used in blends with Mascalese to which it adds colour and lightness while simultaneously softening its considerable acidity. The golden age of Etna reds is not over, but it is no longer a solitary kingdom. Alongside the red king, a white prince has made its way that could win the challenge of time and conquer the sovereign. The great whites of Etna are no longer a promise, but a living reality.
Tastings:
• Girolamo Russo Etna Bianco Doc Feudo 2023
• Federico Curtaz Etna bianco Doc Superiore 2021
• I Custodi delle vigne dell’Etna Imbris Etna bianco Doc Superiore 2021
• Benanti Viticoltori Pietra Marina Etna bianco Doc Superiore 2020
• Pietradolce Etna rosso Doc Barbagalli 2020
• Tasca d’Almerita – Tenuta Tascante Etna Rosso Doc Contrada Sciaranuova VV 2020
• Famiglia Statella Etna rosso Doc Pignatuni Vecchie Vigne 2021
• Graci Etna rosso Doc Arcurìa Sopra il Pozzo 2020