The annual tasting of Barolo barriques from Vigna Gustava: launch of the Fifth Charity Auction Edition

written by Erika Mantovan

27 July, 2025 – The annual tasting of Barolo barriques made from grapes grown in the historic Vigna Gustava, nestled at the foot of the Castle of Grinzane Cavour, marks the official start of preparations for the fifth edition of the charity auction organized by Fondazione CRC, Fondazione CRC Donare ETS, and the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, in collaboration with Enosis Meraviglia and Christie’s—longstanding and indispensable partners of the initiative since its inception, with the charismatic Cristiano De Lorenzo animating the event – It is worth emphasizing once again how the auction house waives its commissions, and that the CRC Foundation covers all the costs associated with organizing the auction.

This project, which began in 2019 with the acquisition of Vigna Gustava—formerly a teaching vineyard of the Alba Enology School—has grown from a visionary idea into a major philanthropic initiative. Conceived by Gianni Cenna, the idea materialized in 2021 with the first edition of the auction, setting forth an ambitious yet tangible mission: to promote the local territory, elevate the prestige of Barolo, and support social, artistic, and real estate-related charitable projects.

To date, across four editions, the auction has raised €3,398,000, benefiting 73 charitable projects in the province of Cuneo, throughout Italy, and internationally. This extraordinary result has been achieved thanks to the joint efforts of public and private institutions, winemakers, and collectors from around the world.

Barolo, the emblem of Piedmontese oenological excellence, becomes a vehicle for social change. The 15 barriques refined by Enosis Meraviglia—under the guidance of Professor Donato Lanati—will be the centerpiece of the auction, alongside the increasingly coveted communal lots of Barolo and Barbaresco made available by local producers.

As Sergio Germano, President of Consorzio Barolo, winemaker and active participant in the project, noted:

“We are proud of this collaboration. Barolo is one of the highest expressions of this territory, and seeing it evolve into a vehicle for solidarity is deeply gratifying. There is strong conviction among producers, and I am confident that new contributions will continue to come in.”

The proceeds from the communal lots continue to support a facility that promotes labor ethics and combats illegal labor practices, while approximately €300,000 has been allocated to the Alba Enology School for educational projects and sector-specific research. But the auction is not just about charity—it has also become a platform for research and study. As Lanati emphasized, the development of the barriques is supported by rigorous scientific analysis:

“This is more than just a sale; it’s a moment for discovery. We’ve learned how vines react to stress, how water availability affects them—consider that a vine needs only 400 milliliters of water per year—and how older vines with finer roots are better adapted. This project is a living lab of agronomic evolution.”

Key Dates and International Outlook

The press presentation is scheduled for October 6, 2025, while the fifth edition of the auction will take place on October 24, 2025. A major innovation this year is the internationalization of the communal lots, with bids open from London, Toronto, New York, and Hong Kong—engaging private collectors, wine clubs, and enthusiasts worldwide. Thoughtful logistics have also been planned: Fieramente will handle overseas shipments free of charge, marking one of the year’s key developments.

During the event, one phrase resonated throughout:

“Nothing is forgotten more slowly than an offense, and more quickly than a favor received.”

A reflection inspired by Seneca, who warned of ingratitude and the selective memory of the human soul. But this project aims to reverse that logic: to remember every gift received—and to give back, even just a portion. It is a conscious, responsible choice guiding the Foundation and all participants in this extraordinary venture.

Wine, Oxygen, and Change: The Challenges Ahead

The day also served as a moment for broader reflections on the future of wine. For instance, there was discussion around the rising trend of non-alcoholic wines: is it just a fad, or a structural shift?

“It will happen—it might even capture 5% of the market. But will we be able to preserve its soul, its sense of place, its character? A wine with zero alcohol and 150 added substances… is that really the future?”

These provocative questions challenge popular trends, such as so-called “superficial organics,” where approved additives differ little from conventional practices. There was also a call to establish a strong territorial label—“Made in Piemonte”—to underscore the origins of great Barolo.

Particularly in focus was the relationship between wine and oxygen, a subject more relevant than ever due to climate change. Today’s Barolo is not what it was twenty years ago: rising UV exposure and altered vineyard conditions have weakened tannins—the wine’s “armor”—making them more fragile and less structured.

“In the past, people said you could just leave the wine in cask. Now, every exposure to oxygen is a risk,” Lanati explained.

Even a single tasting from a barrel can compromise months of work. As little as 50 mg of oxygen and one milligram of iron can trigger the Fenton reaction, with devastating effects on aroma and structure. Oxygen becomes a radical agent, destroying aromas, oxidizing tannins, and altering the wine’s identity. This naturally raises the question of revising production regulations—perhaps reducing the mandatory aging time in wood to under 18 months. Meanwhile, the industry awaits Barolo vintages 2022, 2023, and 2024, whose character has become clearer thanks to tastings like these:

• 2022 is juicy, already open, and harmonious.

• 2023 shows tannic persistence, charisma, and intensity.

• 2024 appears more delicate, fresh, and exceptionally drinkable.

The 2024 Vintage from Vigna Gustava

As described by world-renowned wine critic and Vinous CEO Antonio Galloni, the 2024 vintage of Barolo from Vigna Gustava reveals itself—through the tasting of individually vinified barriques—as an exercise in finesse and precision. This is especially compelling given the complex climate conditions of the year. Continuous rainfall during the growing season, and even at harvest, demanded precise vineyard and cellar decisions, with careful selection and shorter, gentler vinifications. These choices are clearly reflected in the wines.

A striking feature is their stylistic coherence: ethereal, delicate, luminous wines that express a Nebbiolo more fragrant than powerful, more floral and citrus-driven than meaty. They feature vibrant acidity, well-calibrated tannins, and an elegance tailored for those who seek depth over brawn. The separate vinification of each barrique not only provides a multifaceted portrait of Barolo en primeur but also allows insight into how altitude, exposure, vine age, and soil traits shape the wine.

Barriques from older vines on mid-slope parcels stand out in particular. These alternate between lighter, more transparent expressions—marked by dried flowers, blood orange, and wild strawberries—and deeper, more earthy ones with leather, incense, and tobacco notes. Plant-by-plant selection allowed different “souls” of the vineyard to emerge, highlighting the impact of micro-terroir. In the lower section of the vineyard, where south-southwest exposure encourages generous ripening, the wines are notably fragrant and graceful, though less structured. These barriques captivate with their immediacy and ability to express the vintage’s lightness without appearing thin or disjointed. The vineyard’s central heartland, exposed to the southwest, yields the most complete and promising interpretations. Here lies Vigna Gustava’s true power: ripe, intact fruit, well-defined structure, and a balance of strength and grace. Some barriques—such as No. 10—convey raw but intense energy with great aging potential. Others, like Nos. 11 and 12, strike an exemplary balance of elegance and tension. The final barriques, the result of a final selection, return to a more delicate style. Their language is one of lightness, transparency, and citrus freshness. Yet surprises persist: Barrique 14 breaks the mold with a balsamic, spicy, almost alpine character—evidence of a vintage full of depth and personality.

Finally, the tonneau made from grapes not selected for the primary barriques still confirms the overall quality of the vineyard. It, too, displays balance, freshness, and a gentle, well-defined profile—summarizing a vintage that may well be remembered as one of the most captivating for lovers of transparency, verticality, and the truth of terroir.