INFLEXION: Maison Cardinale ventures into gin, with wine as its guiding thread
Two years of work, ten botanicals and a clear idea: to create a gin that can be enjoyed before or after wine without compromising the appreciation of the latter. With INFLEXION, a Gin de France bottled at 44% ABV, the Decoster family (Château Fleur Cardinale) champions serving it without tonic, either neat or simply with neutral-tasting sparkling water.
The story begins with a matter of taste: the family enjoys gin. When setting out to make one, they therefore considered where it might fit into their world as winegrowers. For around fifty years, the dining table has been a constant in the family’s history, from porcelain to bottles of wine. What remained to explore were the moments around it: the apéritif, conversations before sitting down, and the time spent lingering after a meal. One observation also emerged fairly quickly: it is difficult to taste a wine after drinking a conventional gin.
These reflections led to a rather unusual brief: to make “a gin that is an ally of wine”. In other words, a spirit with its own character that still leaves the palate ready for a glass of wine afterwards. On the advice of oenologist Jean-Philippe Fort, the family approached a distillery in Charente. The work would take two years. From the very first discussions, one decision was clear: this gin had to be enjoyable without tonic. Its recipe would therefore need to provide the balance of citrus, bitterness, freshness and softness on the palate usually sought in the mixed drink. The link with the estate would not come from a vine leaf, grapes or another botanical borrowed from the vineyard. It would lie in the blending, with careful attention to the role of each component and the harmony of the whole.
The art of blending
Ten botanicals make up the recipe. Alongside juniper and coriander, cinchona, bergamot, sweet and bitter orange peel, and red sandalwood shape its citrus and bitter profile. Cocoa nibs soften the palate. Eucalyptus and fresh ginger complete the recipe, the latter chopped and added at the very last stage of preparation so that it lifts the blend without dominating it.
INFLEXION – Gin de France, the tasting
The nose is aromatic, elegant, supple, delicate and enveloping, with lovely intensity, finesse and precision. It offers a beautifully broad aromatic palette while remaining delicate throughout. It reveals notes of cinchona and candied orange zest and, to a lesser extent, cardamom and star anise, combined with a fine hint of dried apricot and a subtle menthol touch, almost reminiscent of Ricola. The palate is beautifully delicate, round and supple, with superb energy and lovely freshness. It expresses notes of fresh anise, fresh cardamom and cinchona, combined with a subtle hint of candied zest, delicate, almost cereal-like touches in the background, a nuance of rose and a hint of lychee. The whole is appealing in its delicacy and poise, with controlled, precise power. The assured construction and inviting character of this gin clearly connect it with the identity of Maison Cardinale’s wines.
Neat or with fine bubbles?
The house also suggests serving INFLEXION in a wine glass, with one part gin to two parts finely sparkling water (avoid overly saline waters). This changes its expression: during our tasting, the ginger became more prominent, with a nuance reminiscent of candied ginger. It offers another way to discover the spirit as a longer drink, one that sommeliers in particular will be invited to introduce. Tasting it neat nevertheless remains an excellent way to appreciate the finesse and breadth of its aromatic palette. Personally, it remains my favourite.
The bottle also retains a connection with the family’s history. Its silhouette draws on both wine and spirits, while its ceramic stopper and monogram recall the maker’s marks on the underside of porcelain plates. With an announced price of €55 including VAT, INFLEXION carries the memory of the dining table even in these details.