When statesmen/women get together for a meal, it’s hard to imagine it without wine. Nevertheless, wine is much more than just a drink to be enjoyed with food. It is a catalyser of successful talks. And it can sometimes change the image of an entire country.
At the last G7 Summit in June, the Italians didn’t hold back. The country splurged while hosting representatives of the US and the UK, France and Germany, Japan and Canada. Even Pope Francis turned up at the luxury resort Borgo Egnazia on Puglia’s Adriatic coast.
The country’s winemaking bounty, from the Alps to the island of Pantelleria off the Tunisian coast, was on full display. Ferrari’s Riserva del Fondatore, Masi’s Amarone, Antinori’s Tignanello, Brunello Casanova di Neri from Tenuta Nuova, Gianfranco Fino’s Super-Primitivo Es and Donnafugata’s passito Ben Ryé were poured throughout the summit.
Considering that the main topics up for discussion – headlined by the conflicts in Gaza and Ukraine – weren’t exactly a cause for celebration, this certainly didn’t hurt. Even without uttering a single word, the hosts made la bella figura and an easy case for their country’s likeability. While subtly giving the national economy a little boost.
One might argue this goes without saying for a country with a unique wine tradition and longstanding position as one of the world’s leading producers. Wine is often used as a brand–building tool – rather than just a sign of warm hospitality – and not only by countries famous for their wines.
A seat at the table
In the 18th century, the US wasn’t a wine-exporting country yet. However, at state dinners excellent European wines – from Portugal, Spain, Italy, and even Hungary, but foremost from France – were served. Thomas Jefferson, one of the fathers of the constitution, amassed a stately cellar of approximately 20,000 bottles and made wine a key part of presidential diplomacy.
Whether welcoming Leonid Brezhnev or Zhou Enlai, they all toasted with a glass of fizz. A friendly toast with a good glass of wine is still more personally binding than a mere signature on a sheet of paper.
Today, even teetotal presidents like Joe Biden respect the tradition and pour – preferably American – wines for their guests. When Biden invited Emanuel Macron to the White House in 2022 the wine list was all American. But with labels such as Roederer Estate, founded in California by the eponymous Champagne maison, or Newton Unfiltered of France’s LVMH (whose owner Bernard Arnault sat at the table), the president demonstrated fine diplomatic skills.
Symbol of democracy
More than binding ties and building friendships, many countries have used wines to polish up their sometimes wrinkled image. Konrad Adenauer, first German chancellor after World War II was eager to convince Dwight D. Eisenhower the Germans had overcome Nazism and stood on his side against Russia. He underlined that with an exclusive gift of fifty bottles of Bernkasteler Doctor.
Other countries, best known for bad news, at least in the Western world, made it to decisively change their image with wine. During the second half of the 20th century, Chile had become notorious for its military junta, which tortured thousands while politicians from many Western countries looked the other way. Military dictators in neighbouring Argentina ruled with state terror killing 30,000 people, many of which remain missing until today.
While transitioning to democratic regimes, both countries have since carved an important place in the wine industry; Argentina with its rich Malbecs, Chile sporting fine Cabernets. And both countries beguile with high-altitude vineyards and snow-capped mountains in the background.
From apartheid to wine tourism
“Free Nelson Mandela”, the hit single of the British ska band “The Specials”, was the first thing many people in Europe heard when South Africa was mentioned. Then child labour, the racist apartheid system and footage of brutal police violence.
Until 1994 the country, with its important agricultural sector, was subject to a far-reaching trade ban. In the Western world it was strictly isolated politically. South African athletes were banned from the Olympics.
Fast-forward to today, when the country’s natural beauty, unique wildlife and brilliant Chenin Blanc, Cabernets, Syrahs and Pinotages, are the first things that come to mind to many people. Wine sales and -tourism provide 300,000 jobs on the Western Cape and play a key role in the country’s environmental, economic and social sustainability.
Welcome distraction
Ex-Soviet republic Georgia is still teetering between Russia and the EU today – but it has become exceedingly popular among younger wine drinkers. A wine history that goes back 9000 years and the very traditional production in clay vessels (qvevri) fascinate trendy wine lovers around the world and have inspired the production of orange wines in many countries.
Also, Israel and Lebanon, albeit some of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions – weren’t widely known for their wine culture until very recently. But the focus of ambitious winemakers have allowed many to step back from an endless stream of conflicts in the Middle-East.
Lebanon, with its fine terroirs in the Bekaa Valley, has become a household name in the wine world despite many challenges. “But we haven’t had a lot of luck with our neighbours”, George Sara, general manager of fellow Lebanese winery Château Ksara says euphemistically. The Phoenicians were the most skilled seafarers even 5000 years ago when they sold their wines over the Mediterranean Sea. Today, locked between Syria and Israel, the sea is still Lebanon’s foremost connection to the (wine) world.
A call for peace
“Wine needs peace”, winemaker Pierre Miodownick from Galilee (Israel) told the American wine magazine Wine Searcher recently. “We want peace, we don’t want war anymore,” echoed Sara. We don’t know whether they know each other or have ever talked. But even their experiences are similar: working in the vineyards, then suddenly having to run for shelter, always worrying about their staff and the next harvest. Everyone has lost someone they knew or loved.
They both stay in the vineyards and keep pruning. They want to keep their businesses running. Winemakers are focussed on terroir, culture and provenance. At the same time, they have understood this is nothing without an international community. Winemakers think outside the box, talk to other winemakers, respect them and learn from each other, having long realised the industry thrives when everybody does a good job and shares their rewards.
Despite all challenges and backlashes – such as over production, tariffs and climate change – the industry is more dynamic than ever before. Wines have become better and better due to more technical expertise and understanding of terroirs. Everyone knows lesser renowned regions aren’t necessarily less good. The point is to promote all winemaking and to make the tide lift all boats. Today there is more good wine in the market than ever and it’s widely recognised as an essential cultural and economic asset. Sales count in two-digit billions of what used to be a pretty simple agricultural production 50 years ago.
Politicians could learn a thing or two from that.