A true gem of the region, also driving the narrative for white wines
In a market context that sees a constant and growing reduction in alcohol consumption, caused by the regulations introduced in December of last year, there is also increasing attention to the health risks associated with its consumption. Additionally, a mix of factors such as economic and political crises, with rising prices and cost of living, undermine what we call the potential purchasing power of a good, in this case, wine. This is a global phenomenon where white wines are becoming increasingly popular due to their lighter alcohol content – although this depends on the denominations, I would add.
A necessary premise to say that there is certainly a market, however, for those red wines that are colorful, fresh, aromatic, and fragrant, in some cases with good aging potential, but especially with a moderate alcohol content, produced in Liguria. Among these, alongside Rossese and Ormeasco, there is Granaccia. Grenache, if we want to call it by its more internationally recognized name.
Produced by over twenty wineries from the western Riviera of Liguria, which promote themselves together through the work of the entity “Vite in Riviera,” founded in 2015. This was the case at the latest edition, the 19th, of “Granaccia & Rossi di Liguria,” held in Quiliano last November 2024. A showcase with over 60 wineries from across the region, which borders France, Piedmont, Tuscany, and Emilia-Romagna. A narrow and long region, overlooking the sea, but with heroic vineyards climbing the steep hillsides.
A productive fabric that works watching the sea from dawn to dusk
The goal of these tasting and storytelling days, open to the public, is to take stock of the quality level of the wines, which impresses due to stylistic diversity and the different personalities that coexist beautifully, thanks to a denomination that, in fact, is self-sustaining, free from growth ambitions and the search for economies of scale that are impossible here. We are talking about small, very small family-run businesses, telling the Ligurian social fabric, made up of winemaking traditions and work to the rhythm of dawn and sunset. There is also great potential for development in terms of quality, both in vinification techniques and in tasting, as producers continue to refine their methods and enhance the expression of their wines, bringing out the best characteristics of the region’s terroir.
How did Grenache arrive in Liguria?
The history dates back a long way. It arrived in Sardinia in the 1400s during the Aragonese domination of the island, and then spread to other parts of Italy and France, especially in the Roussillon area and the southern Rhône. It wasn’t until the 1700s that it appeared in Liguria, thanks to families with commercial ties to Spain, particularly to the city of Granada, from which the name Granaccia likely derives.
The grape is versatile and spread across many Italian regions, adapting to the climate and terrain of Liguria and quickly developing a recognizable identity, thanks to a mild coastal climate and calcareous, clayey soils with good fertility. Despite currently limited production numbers – around twenty hectares – Granaccia in Liguria also drives the white wines, precisely because of its ability to be so closely linked to the territory, from which it derives a maritime character. The wine presents an intense color, ruby red with violet hues. The aromatic profile varies, ranging from flowers, marasca cherries, incense, and spices, with a delicate trace of saltiness and wet rock, reminiscent of the sea.
Very immediate in its appeal, it reveals itself with a full-bodied and harmonious sip, with excellent acidity, a sign that it is a wine suitable for all meals. Over time, by tasting more aged expressions, one can notice how the fruity notes and easy drinkability evolve into a certain complexity, thanks to the use of wood, which, if well managed, adds a deeper dimension to the wine. It thus becomes likewise Rossese wine an ideal pairing with meats and Ligurian cheeses, perfectly showcased by Enrico Marmo at his Balzi Rossi restaurant or in the kitchens of Innocenzo Turco. The latter, now a wine producer, is one of the leading figures of Granaccia in Liguria, followed by the promising project Rocca Vinealis.
Restaurants involved in the Granaccia & Rossi di Liguria project with dedicated menus and wine pairings
– BABETTE
– BOMA
– IL PESCEGATTO
– QUINTILIO
– QUINTO GUSTO
– SEA ART WINEBAR & RESTAURANT
– VIGNAMARE
– DA TINA