Vinchio Vaglio: New vision of white winemaking in Piedmont
The world of wine is a dynamic domain that reflects not only climatic variations, but also consumer tastes. A notable trend in the wine market today is a strong growth of interest to white wines. Winemakers in iconic red wine regions start to produce white wines, sometimes from grape varieties that are atypical for their regions. At the Wine Paris Vinexpo 2025 trade show, we met with Tessa Donnadieu, export manager of the Vinchio Vaglio estate, located in Piedmont, to discuss this trend in the realm of the Nebbiolo red grape variety.
VertdeVin: Have you noticed a growth in consumer interest in white wines ?
Tessa Donnadieu: Indeed, demand of white wines is increasing, especially in Scandinavian markets. We already had a few white wines, but we decided to expand our range to respond to this trend. Piedmont has always been a land of red wine, but even here, we are seeing winemakers’ desire to produce more white wines. Now, in addition to Chardonnay, which has been traditional and historical for sparkling wines of Piedmont, we also find Viognier, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Another reason for planting other grape varieties is the disease flavescence dorée (also called “grapevine yellowing”), which is widespread in Piedmont. The Barbera variety is very susceptible to it, Nebbiolo a little less. It is believed that new rootstocks contribute to the spread of flavescence dorée, because old vines on old rootstocks are more resistant.
VdV: How many white wines do you produce ?
T.D.: We have the traditional varieties of Piedmont: Arneis, Cortese, and Chardonnay, as well as Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. We produce varietal white wines with aromatic markers of the grape varieties, which also express the terroir of Piedmont. For example, our Chardonnay and Viognier do not undergo malolactic fermentation or barrel aging. They always exhibit freshness, the markers of the grape varieties, completed by minerality and salinity, given by our fossil-rich. In our Viognier, we also find the characteristics of the grape variety, but the wine is more chiseled, more with tension and acidity, rather than roundness. I presented a vat sample of our new white Viognier at the wine fair, and it was a greater success, han our sparkling wines in other years.
VdV: Why did you choose to plant Viognier? Are there any projects for other grape varieties ?
T.D.: Viognier is resistant to flavescence dorée and performs very well on soils of Piedmont. For the same reason, we planted Sauvignon Blanc. We would also like to produce wine from the Timorasso grape variety, under the Derthona appellation. It’s a very interesting grape variety, fresh in its youth, but capable of evolving well like Riesling, and is enjoying growing export interest, despite its higher price range.
VdV: What style are you trying to give to your new whites ?
T.D.: We’d like to make fresh, enjoyable whites that are easy to pair with, wines for aperitifs, cheese platters, charcuterie boards, salads, sushi… Pure, varietal wines, without aging, and for healthy, simple cuisine.
